What to see, where to stay and the best time to visit Quetzaltenango, Guatemala.
Photo: David Diaz / Pexels
Quetzaltenango, often called Xela, is Guatemala's second city and sits in the highlands, far from the coast. It has a compact centre around Parque Centroamérica, with a cathedral, a theatre and a large cemetery to explore on foot. Beyond the city, volcanoes, crater lakes and hot springs give visitors reasons to stay longer. January and February bring the best weather, with drier, clearer days that suit hiking trips like the climb up Santa María Volcano.
The city centre's sights fill a day or two, but add time for day trips to Fuentes Georginas, Laguna Chicabal or Zunil, each needing half a day, plus a full day for Santa María Volcano.
Zona 1 (city centre)
The main square of Xela, framed by grand neoclassical buildings, banks and the old Pasaje Enríquez arcade. It is the natural starting point for a walk around the historic centre and a good place to watch local life.
Zona 1 (Parque Centroamérica)
The city's cathedral stands on the east side of the central square. The ornate facade of the original colonial church survives in front of a newer building behind it, and that contrast is the main reason to look closely.
Zona 1
A neoclassical theatre a short walk north of the central square, with columns and busts of national figures outside. It is one of the city's finest buildings and still hosts performances.
Zona 3
A large city cemetery full of colourful family tombs, mausoleums and monuments. It gives a quiet look at local history and Guatemalan traditions around death and remembrance.
Edge of the city
A wooded hill and park on the edge of town with walking paths and views over Xela and the surrounding volcanoes. It is an easy outing for a city break without a full hike.
South of the city
The volcano that rises over Xela is the classic local hike, steep but without technical climbing. From the top you can look down on the active Santiaguito dome and across a long chain of volcanoes. Clouds often roll in later in the morning, so most groups start in the dark.
Near San Martín Sacatepéquez
A crater lake inside a volcano, surrounded by cloud forest and often wrapped in mist. It is a sacred site for local Maya communities, and it sometimes closes to visitors for ceremonies. Visitors are expected to be quiet and respectful.
Near Zunil
Natural hot springs fed into pools on a steep, forested mountainside. The air up here is cool and often misty, which makes the warm water especially pleasant.
Zunil (outside the city)
A K'iche' Maya town in a green valley below the road to Fuentes Georginas, with a white colonial church and farm fields all around. Many visitors stop here on the way to the hot springs.
San Andrés Xecul (outside the city)
A small town known for its bright yellow church facade, covered in painted figures, plants and animals. It is one of the most photographed churches in Guatemala and an easy trip from Xela.
Average weather and our month score, from 10 years of climate data.
| Month | High / low | Rain days | Sunshine | Score |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Best month: January | 18°C / 8°C | 14 days (43 mm) | 10.8 h/day | 7.2/10 |
| Best month: February | 19°C / 9°C | 14 days (47 mm) | 11.0 h/day | 7.2/10 |
| March | 19°C / 9°C | 23 days (107 mm) | 11.3 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| April | 19°C / 11°C | 26 days (190 mm) | 11.1 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| May | 19°C / 12°C | 30 days (378 mm) | 9.7 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| June | 18°C / 12°C | 28 days (452 mm) | 8.3 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| July | 19°C / 11°C | 24 days (215 mm) | 10.3 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| August | 19°C / 11°C | 27 days (300 mm) | 9.8 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| September | 18°C / 12°C | 29 days (400 mm) | 8.9 h/day | 7.0/10 |
| October | 18°C / 11°C | 28 days (325 mm) | 8.8 h/day | 6.9/10 |
| November | 18°C / 10°C | 19 days (114 mm) | 9.9 h/day | 6.9/10 |
| December | 18°C / 9°C | 15 days (49 mm) | 10.5 h/day | 7.0/10 |
Days reach 18°C with cold nights near 8°C. Only 14 rain days make this a dry month. Score 7.2, a good time to visit.
Similar to January: highs of 19°C, 14 rain days. Sunniest start to the year with 11 hours of sun. Score 7.2, good.
Highs near 19°C but rain picks up sharply to 23 days and 107mm. Still scores 7, good, as the wet season begins.
Rain increases further: 26 rain days and 190mm. Highs stay around 19°C. Score 7, good, despite the wetter pattern.
One of the wettest months, with 30 rain days and 378mm of rain, plus fewer sun hours. Tough weather for outdoor plans, but still scores 7, good.
The wettest month: 452mm of rain over 28 days, and only 8.3 hours of sun, the lowest of the year. Score 7, good, for those who don't mind the downpours.
Rain eases a little to 215mm over 24 days, with sun hours back up to 10.3. Highs around 19°C. Score 7, good.
Rain returns to 300mm over 27 days. Highs stay steady near 19°C. Score 7, good.
Heavy rain continues: 400mm over 29 days, one of the wettest stretches of the year. Score 7, good, for travellers prepared for frequent showers.
Rain still frequent at 28 days and 325mm, with highs cooling slightly to 18°C. Score 6.9, good, the lowest score of the year.
Rain drops off to 19 rain days and 114mm as the dry season begins. Highs around 18°C. Score 6.9, good.
Dry and cool, with 14.5 rain days, 49mm of rain, and nights near 9°C. Score 7, good, closing out the year calmly.
Climate averages 2015–2024 · Best time to visit Guatemala →
The best areas to base yourself and who each one suits.
Good for first-timers, language students, nightlife
Zona 1 is the old stone centre around Parque Centro América. It has most of the language schools, cafés and bars, and you can walk to almost everything. Weekend nights can be loud near the bars, and the old buildings can feel cold and damp inside on chilly evenings.
Good for budget travellers, market lovers, onward travel
A busy commercial district west of the centre with La Democracia market and easy access to the Minerva bus terminal for trips to nearby villages. It feels local and practical rather than pretty. Traffic and bus noise are constant, and some streets feel less comfortable after dark.
Good for longer stays, shopping, quieter nights
This newer area along Avenida Las Américas has wider streets, shopping centres and modern restaurants. It is calmer at night than the centre and good if you want modern comforts. The historic sights and most of the nightlife are a taxi or bus ride away.
Typical journey times and fares from the airport and other cities.
| Route | By | Time | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guatemala City → Quetzaltenango First-class Pullman buses, about 4 hours. Operators include Transportes Alamo, Línea Dorada, Galgos and Fuente del Norte. Buy tickets at the company's own bus station in Zona 1 or Zona 7 of the capital, or in Xela. Tickets are usually on sale just before departure. Several departures run each day. Check the times with the company, because the published schedules are not recent. | bus | 4 h | 75–100 GTQ ↗ |
Places within 2½ hours by train, bus, ferry or car.
bus · 25–45 USD
Shared shuttle, about 2.5 h, hotel to hotel. Atitrans lists a daily 05:00 departure from USD 45 on its own page. Other sources list Atitrans from USD 30, Adrenalina Tours at USD 25 (minimum 2 people), and Guatemala Transportation and AtitlanTour at about USD 35. Flor del Paisaje runs a cheaper public bus.
This thick meat stew with roasted chili and seed sauce is a classic Guatemalan dish eaten at home and in local comedores around Quetzaltenango, often on Sundays or for special family meals.
A hearty beef and vegetable soup served with corn on the cob and yuca. It's common at lunch in markets, warming visitors against the city's cool highland air.
Corn dough filled with meat or chili sauce, wrapped in banana or maize leaves and steamed. Locals eat these at breakfast, during festivals, and as street food in the central market.
Smaller, firmer versions of tamales made with masa and a light tomato-based filling. They are a popular quick snack sold by street vendors across the city.
Sweet fried plantain dumplings stuffed with black beans and sugar, often eaten as a dessert or afternoon treat from street stalls.
Best: Jan, Feb, Mar, Dec
Best: Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec
Best: Jan, Feb, Mar, Dec
Yes, August is rated good for a visit, scoring 7 out of 10. Expect 27 rain days and 300mm of rain, with highs of 18.5°C and lows of 11.2°C. Sun hours drop to 9.8, so pack a rain jacket and layers for cool evenings, but the city still works well for sightseeing between showers.
January and February are the best months, both scoring 7.2 out of 10. These months have the fewest rain days, around 13.9 each, and the least rainfall, 43mm and 47mm. Sun hours reach 10.8 to 11 hours, giving clearer skies than the rest of the year, though nights stay cool with lows near 8.4°C to 8.6°C.
Plan for 2 to 3 days. The city centre sights, like Parque Centroamérica, the Catedral del Espíritu Santo, Teatro Municipal and Cementerio General, each take 1 to 2 hours. Add a half-day for Fuentes Georginas or Laguna Chicabal, and a full day if you want to climb Santa María Volcano starting before dawn.
It stays cool year-round rather than cold. Daytime highs sit between 17.8°C and 18.8°C in every month, with little seasonal swing. Lows range from 8.4°C in January to 11.9°C in June, so mornings and evenings call for a jacket even in the warmer, wetter months.
The wettest months run from May to September. May brings 378mm of rain over 30.2 days, and June is the wettest at 452mm over 28.3 days. Rainfall stays high through September at 400mm. Sun hours fall to around 8.3 to 9.8 during this stretch, so expect frequent showers and cloudier skies.
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